A Conversation with Jennifer Diederich of Suite

When you think of cocktail parties, a certain type of girl comes to mind. She’s witty, she’s well-read, and she will dazzle you with both her humor and sartorial confidence. Her fashion influences are just as delightfully mixed as her drink of choice, but she will always leave an impression. 

Jennifer Diederich’s Suite is the atelier of choice for this girl-about-town. She’s an alum of Project Runway (Season 5), and what stands out about her style is that she was always assured of it — confident in the type of girl she wanted to dress and how she would exemplify that aesthetic. The 1950s and 60s were the heyday for cocktail parties, and Jennifer Diederich evokes that period’s sense of whimsy and delight with her shimmering dresses and statement coats. 

I chatted with Jennifer about her designs and how she tailored her fashion brand to suit her own creativity and business choices.

Jeanie at Conversational: I must say I'm a bit obsessed with your Instagram. I want to wrap myself up in your David Bowie coat and slay an afterparty. Your style reminds me of Kate Spade and Cath Kidston, invoking a love for vintage and a nod to the past, especially with 60s mod silhouettes, but with a fresh twist. 

Jennifer: You are right on with my inspiration. I have always been inspired by the playful, voluminous silhouettes, feminine shapes, and the idea of "getting dressed" which seems to be lacking in the present. I also love colorful prints and tongue-in-cheek details. I first fell in love as a teenager with the worlds created by designers Todd Oldham, Betsey Johnson, Cynthia Rowley, and Anna Sui. 

I admired each designer's strong point of view and the explosive amounts of creativity. Having always dressed in things I loved as opposed to the latest trends, I thought these designers created clothing that had unique ideas and dressed a specific kind of customer. I also appreciated that the price points, while slightly elevated, were not unattainable.

Jeanie: Can you talk a bit about your fashion inspiration? Who are your favorite designers? 

Jennifer: While I was at FIT studying fashion design, I was introduced to my fashion idol: Elsa Schiaparelli. Her innovation in fashion and collaborations with artists continue to inspire me. 

Another huge inspiration for me is Kate Spade. I think Kate was an innovator in creating a fashionable world for her clothing and accessories to live in. The Kate Spade girl loved everything about the world she created. She felt special, unique, and seen. Her accessories were a luxury item — but at an attainable price, and spoke to the wit of the wearer in the most gentle of ways. I hope to make my customers feel that kind of magic too while wearing my "quick escape coats." Kate's new brand, Frances Valentine, is also an incredible brand vision and company. Even though Kate is no longer here, I am excited to see the journey of the brand which is still run by Kate's partners at Kate Spade/Frances Valentine.

Jeanie: Can you talk about life before, during, and after Project Runway? 

Jennifer: I auditioned for Project Runway while I was living in a small town outside of Florence, Italy. I had been working designing embroideries for Blumarine.

Being chosen as a designer on Season 5 of Project Runway was a great experience. 

Jeanie: Do you feel like the experience changed the way you create things or do business, or did you stay true to your original vision for your designs? 

Jennifer: Although it was criticized at times during the competition, I tried to remain true to my vintage inspired aesthetic. I liked the possibility of applying my design point of view to each challenge, at times more successfully than others, but all the while trying to make creative solutions.

Jeanie: How did you make the jump from Project Runway to Suite — did you build on the momentum of the show or did you take time to launch?

Jennifer: When I got back to Italy after filming had concluded, I was unsure of my next steps. I decided to take advantage of the momentum from Project Runway and started to create Suite. It has been an evolution over the years from Italy to now New York.

“I always had NYC in my heart. Like many creatives, I thrive off of the energy in New York. ”

Jeanie: How do Italy and New York influence your work?

Jennifer: I first travelled to Italy for a study abroad program my third year at FIT. I fell in love with my husband, Claudio, an Italian from Tuscany that year. While I now feel like Italy is one of my homes, I had a hard time living there for the 15 years that I did. 

I always had NYC in my heart. Like many creatives, I thrive off of the energy in New York. The Italians are known for high fashion, but my fashion sense is much more of an individualistic one. I remember being called an "Easter egg" walking the streets of Florence in an ocean of black puffy down coats and skinny jeans. I think that Italy has influenced my love of "la dolce vita" or living with incredible art. I walked by the Duomo of Florence everyday — incredibly fresh food, the art of entertaining, and just enjoying the small details in life. 

Being back in New York has brought a whole new wave of excitement in my business though. I love that opportunity lives behind every corner of this city.

Jeanie: I feel like I know the girl who would love your clothes — she's clever and witty, has a penchant for paperback books and long afternoons with endless cups of tea, and though she's dedicated to the things she loves, never takes herself too seriously. 

Do you have a specific woman in mind when creating your pieces? What kind of woman do you dress?

Jennifer: I love the woman you are describing! I would add that she loves wearing conversation piece and buys things that she loves, so they become wardrobe staples for years to come.

I think this woman ranges in age because her style is a state of mind and a way of life.

Jeanie: Since January is the Money Issue of Conversational, I think it would be fascinating for readers to get a glimpse behind the business side of a fashion label. Along those lines, where do you see your company in the retail landscape? Are you concerned with scaling up or do you like the model of a more bespoke, boutique brand?

Jennifer: I started creating my dresses and coats to custom measurements while in Italy. I wanted to learn about sizing in a practical, hands-on way and get to know my specific customer needs. As I realized how many of my customers had similar sizing and requests, I wanted to step away from custom and towards sizing and regular production. This would allow me to reach more customers, since I wouldn't be creating custom patterns and sewing everything myself.

Jeanie: Retail seems to be going through unprecedented changes: department stores are closing while online distributors are booming. Has this altered the way you do business? 

Jennifer: Times do change, and as we do more on our phones, shopping has moved from storefronts to the internet. I remember listening to an interview with Anna Wintour where they asked her thoughts about having celebrities like Kim Kardashian on the cover. She said something along the lines of that we must constantly change and adapt with the times and not lag behind. It left an impression on me because a woman who has such an influence on style, who can make any style statement she wanted, wisely stated that we should adapt and explore new avenues.

I consider retail locations that carry my collection to be extremely valuable to the brand. Being a newer designer, boutiques with similar, more established brands in a similar aesthetic help create a new customer base. 

It’s important for customers to be able to feel the fabrics, try on the silhouettes, and twirl around in the dressing room before purchasing. 

From a design point of view, I greatly appreciate the way a brick-and-mortar store can create a world for the clothes. If done right, the atmosphere can transport you. I think as technology advances, we will also be able to offer a similar retail experience but in new ways. While I am a nostalgic person at heart, I welcome the new ideas as well.

Jeanie: How do you balance the creative with the practical/entrepreneurial? Do you wear both hats or do you collaborate with others?

Jennifer: Being a small business, I must fulfill many roles. This year, my business partner, AnnMarie Mattila, who was also my roommate at FIT, thankfully joined my business. She has a vast amount of production management experience with companies like DKNY, Aeropostale, and Calvin Klein, not to mention her pastry chef degree (which comes in deliciously handy during meetings). 

We have been working together on scaling the brand to bring it to more retailers — both brick and mortar and online. I still sew some of the orders, but slowly we are switching over to having production done in the garment district in NYC. 

I also have been lucky to collaborate with some very talented print designers such as Smirkshop, Clementine Studio, and Atelier Mave. Unique prints are an important part of my design aesthetic, and these artists are helping me to bring the print ideas to life.

To see more from Jennifer and Suite, check out Century Girl’s retail location or online at Wolf & Badger and Shop Your Fit.